Over the past few years, Puglia has grown to become one of the world’s most-desired holiday destinations. Get a taste for exactly why at Pino’s Vino e Cucina al Mare, a new Puglia-inspired restaurant that has just opened its ivy-covered doors in Cronulla.

The original Pino’s Vino e Cucina in Alexandria takes its inspiration from Rome, which is the home town of owner and chef Matteo Margiotta.

For his second venue, Margiotta wanted to channel the sun-kissed shores of Italy’s south, where he recently visited for a family holiday. “We rented a beautiful house by the sea for three weeks,” he says.

“This is the feeling I want our Cronulla restaurant to have.”

It is not much of a stretch, either. The former Methodist church is covered in thick, ivy vines, such as you might find in the backstreets of Lecce. Three glass doors at the front are opened on our visit, allowing the salty sea air to mingle with the aromas of garlic and freshly picked basil.

Inside, the white rustic walls are adorned with terracotta ornaments and ceramic plates hand-sourced from the region, while potted olive trees create a piazza vibe in the breezy front room.

Puglia is also the inspiration for the menu, which is built around light, fresh antipasto plates and seafood pastas, handmade in an imported Italian Imperia & Monferrina pasta machine.

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Do as the Puglians do and start with the “pizzicheria” platter. Build your own board by stacking up salumi, such as mortadella, prosciutto and bresaola, and formaggi like buffalo taleggio and occelli al Barolo – a buttery alpine cheese pressed with fragrant grape skins.

There are four fresh pastas to choose from and we recommend loading up. Cacio e pepe is recreated here with thick, chewy, pici noodles, while the cheese and pepper sauce is dispensed in a whipped cream charger, adding an extra light and luscious texture to the dish.

Vodka pasta has gone viral these past few years, and Pino’s version is the best we’ve tried. The penne has been switched up for maccheroncini – long, slender tubes, which are folded through with freshly picked crab and a creamy vodka-laced sauce.

The Alexandria outpost is famed for its bistecca Fiorentina and the dish has also made the move over to Cronulla. The Tuscan T-bone is served medium rare, darkly crusted on the outside and gently blushing within. Beef it up with the wagyu fat potatoes or add a seasonal side, which might include roasted Jerusalem artichokes, shrivelled and sweet, or golden sprouts tossed with pancetta and parmigiana.

Dessert is kept classico with a rich tiramisu, the creamy mascarpone folds dominating over the savoiardi sponge layer, and a vanilla-flecked creme caramel with fresh, tart blackberries. It will have you jiggling with delight.

Don’t forget a glass of Pino’s vino. The thoughtful list focuses on Italian varietals, available by the half or full bottle.

Now, all that’s left to do is walk the two blocks to the beach for the perfect Puglian-inspired afternoon.

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