Inside this delightful old building, the dining room is spread out comfortably, sound levels and lighting muted, soft and welcoming, giving rise to the feel of a special event night out clearly appreciated as much by loyal locals as wine region visitors.

The wine list of course favours Coonawarra’s finest, with enough foreigners to interest anyone looking further afield; the by-the-glass selection offers a dozen local heroes to set the tone.

The menu steers an impressive and stylish path including a couple of Asianleaning entrees – seared scallops, shaved enoki, black garlic, roasted sesame with udon noodles a highlight – to more Euro-centric stylings like roasted duck breast, smoked pork cheek, herbed gnocchi mushroom and broad beans. Side dishes such as tempura flat beans, gochujang labna, peanuts and garlic chives offer great culinary adventure as well.

And don’t skip dessert – exciting Michelin-like treats are worth the calorie count.

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