It’s already hard enough choosing between Chat Thai, Spice I Am and Caysorn. Now you’ll have to contend with Porkfat, too. Word on the street (or in the Instagram comments, for that matter) is that Sydney’s newest Thai diner is one of the city’s best.

Merivale executive chef Dan Hong has already called it outstanding, while “Big” Sam Young from S’more bistro said everyone needs to go. While the promise of pork fat is enough to lure most people through the doors, the real drawcard here is a chance to try the heady home comforts of chef and owner Narin “Jack” Kulasai, who worked alongside David Thompson at lauded Thai restaurants Long Chim in Sydney and Nahm in Bangkok.

Now that Kulasai is calling the shots, he’s focusing on the simple yet satisfying streetfood eats from his hometown Saraburi, in Central Thailand. Porkfat has squeezed into a split-level site opposite Paddy’s Markets in Haymarket where it’s surrounded by solid competition, including the excellent Chinese Noodle Restaurant which is just across the road.

Swing open the doors to Porkfat and you’ll be greeted by a sea of sawasdees from the kitchen – which is a warm greeting from the Land of Smiles. Head upstairs to the small angular dining room, which has been kitted out in dark timber tables and padded leather chairs.

Thankfully, there are not too many decisions to be made on the menu, which includes just 10 dishes in total plus a couple of more creative chef specials.

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Many of the dishes you will recognise already. Moo ping pork skewers are served straight off the grill, lacquered in a glistening glaze of soy and condensed milk.

Prep the palate with the barramundi salad. A chunky tumble of chilli, lemongrass and green mango delivers hot, sweet and sour notes that will make you feel sweaty one minute, refreshed the next.

You can tell just by looking at the green curry that it’s going to be good. Wade through the oil-skimmed swamp and fish out sweet, plump lychees and fatty strips of pork jowl. This specific cut was chosen for its springy texture and rich, porky taste. A zingy crab and egg fried rice squeezed with fresh lime makes the perfect companion dish.

Be extra careful with the pretty-patterned plates. Many are handpainted in Chiang Rai and shipped over from Thailand, while others come from Kulasai’s grandmother’s collection.

So what about that pork fat? Many of the dishes are made in pork lard rather than cooking oil, which is probably why everything tastes so good.

No need to hunt for ice cream afterwards. Porkfat has only one dessert on the menu, but it’s worth hanging around for. A housemade coconut ice cream is served sundae- style with sweet chewy palm seeds, smashed peanuts and candied pumpkin strips scattered on top. It’s pure childhood delight.

It’s just one more reason to skip your favourite Thai diner and give this newcomer a go.

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