Since Porteño claimed the ex-MoVida space on quiet Holt St, it has sprouted a precinct including Wyno x Bodega, irreverent Italian Bastardo and cult bakery Humble. Porteño remains the crown jewel.

Waiters rocking white shirts, black waistcoats and bow ties navigate a dining room straight out of Buenos Aires, with its black-and-white tiled floors and portraits of long-retired soccer players. And always, there’s a hint of smoke rising from the asado fire pit.

A relationship with top Australian butchers and farmers sustains an ever-changing steak menu featuring grain- and grass-fed cuts ranging from the manageable (300g) to the behemoth (1kg-plus), seared over eucalyptus charcoal.

On the non-steak side, there’s Tasmanian octopus, curled onto a bed of taramasalata studded with purslane or plated with flame-grilled peppers; tender Margra lamb; and fennel salad studded with orange and apricot. The nuanced wine list includes bolshie Argentinian malbecs that cry out for a good steak. Twelve years in and counting, Porteño has proven it’s here for a good time as well as a long time.

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