In 1856 you entered the town’s bank by ringing a doorbell; the same goes for the new culinary custodian, Provenance. Japanese techniques and flavours are at home in a contemporary setting where local ingredients are celebrated.

Chef and owner Michael Ryan adjusts the set menu seasonally, tweaking the 18 smaller dishes over four courses regularly. Each is served on ornate colourful plates arranged on wooden trays. A wine pairing is available but don’t leave without trying local drop, 2014 Virago Nebbiolo.

Every plate is a delightful surprise, from the kingfish sashimi with beetroot and pomegranate to the potato mochi. A dessert trilogy boasts a range of textures, such as creme brulee with a yuzu punch and fried milk in miso sugar – a cross between cinnamon doughnut and cinnamon puree.

Cute details don’t go unnoticed: the old bank vault now makes a fitting wine cellar. Provenance is marked by heritage, human stories and an innovative look to the future. 

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