I love a restaurant that makes you feel good just by entering. Where a hum of happy humans dispels all worldly woes.

The new Ragazzi, Italian for ‘guys’ or ‘the boys’, is just such a place. It’s the latest outing by the lads behind wine bars Dear Sainte Éloise and Love, Tilly Devine, Matt Swieboda and NateHatwell, only here they’re joined by Scott Williams (late of Movida and Bacco) as chef and co-owner, along with restaurant manager Felix Colman.

Clever use of space sees 40-odd diners packed into the narrow diner on Angel Place, seated along the brown leather banquette or at the bar.

It’s smart and not overly designed. Given Hatwell and Swieboda’s wine credentials it’s no surprise the list is a cracker. It explores Italian regions and varieties in detail, along with Australian iterations of Italian grapes, making an ideal muse for Williams’ knockout Italianate no-fuss menu.

It opens with a must-have tuna crudo, brightened with apple and fermented cucumber, on crisp pasta fritta and the hits just keep coming. Artichoke shines in beef tartare with buttermilk and mustard, made surprisingly light by an endive raft. New-season broad beans loll in a prawn oil puddle around a plump burrata that oozes milky joy with the nick of a knife.

The main courses are equally outstanding – all pasta apart from a butterflied garfish with a rocket salsa verde. A winning take on spaghetti cacio e pepe is enriched with butter here and showered with Espelette pepper, and mafaldine with fermented chilli and mackerel is magnificent.

This is beautiful cooking. Come dessert, the honey panna cotta, served with blood-orange granita, is a tad too sweet for me, but its velvet texture is lovely.

The guys have worked magic here and created a pocket of happiness, and it’s just what we needed. Viva Ragazzi.