When news broke that Chippendale favourite, Rico’s Tacos would be closing its corner store on Meagher Street, we were right to panic. Those fears have been quickly allayed after a trip to the new home of tacos, the Norfolk Hotel.

A huge rebrand of the Cleveland Street pub sees walls adorned with vibrant yellows, reds, hand-painted ceramics, and anthropomorphic cartoon tacos performing the salsa, as well as a late-night disco on the mezzanine level.

The crowning jewel of the new Rico’s Tacos though, has to be the lofty and leafy courtyard that has won the Norfolk fans for years.

Not much has changed out here – a few new pretty pastel pink tables, more of those cutesy cartoon murals – but the vibes are high and well suited to the casual energy of a taqueria. It’s the perfect spot for a frosty Tecate or a slushy strawberry pavlova margarita, and of course a table full of finger foods.

We urge you to start with a tostada of kingfish and coconut ceviche spiked with lime, chilli crisp, and a refreshing, surprising hit of torn mint leaves, which give each mouthful a bright and clean finish. Shatteringly crisp tostada, cool and creamy avocado puree, and firm lime-cured kingfish, this is the dish to order and we’re already planning our next visit to eat it again.

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A selection of six tacos (five regulars plus one special – this week it’s lamb) remain the highlight of the menu. The standouts are the bronzed cauliflower with rich agave tahini sauce and heady with lemon juice, and the pork al pastor, freshened with a terracotta-hued salsa and a single slice of pineapple. Both illustrate a considered approach to salt, acid, and fat; elements that are countered by the soft and satisfyingly chew of the tortillas. 

A new addition to the menu, the hamburguesa is a nod to classic pub fare, and if you’re after something familiar it is a solid beef burger. A couple of Mexican twists like fresh salsa and chippies tossed with Old Bay seasoning send you close to the border, but not quite south of it. 

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The churros have survived the move from Chippo to Redfern, IYKYK. Ricos diehards will be thrilled with this news, and new followers have something to look forward to. A chilli and cinnamon spiced ice cream sandwich, coated with cacao nibs has joined the fiesta too, with texture reminiscent of a chocolate Paddlepop and the tingly warmth of a strong masala chai.

We can absolutely see Rico’s being a friend for every season. Whether your little ones are toddling around the courtyard, you’re sharing a bowl of corn chips with your pooch, or snacking your way towards a tequila sunrise upstairs at Club Rico, the atmosphere lends itself just as well to a Wednesday lunch as it will to a late-night groove. Clear your afternoon for a siesta. 

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