Now under the wing of Hunter St. Hospitality and culinary director Corey Costelloel, its service remains impeccable, and if you’re challenged by the encyclopaedic 3000-plus wine list, there’s help readily at hand. The open kitchen stretches down one side and houses the wood grill which is the central focus of the produce-forward menu.

A starter of Sydney rock oysters or woodfire-grilled chorizo is worth a look-in but the mains are the stars of the show. Choose from King George whiting from the charcoal oven or a free-range chicken with sage and burnt butter cooked over the fire – tender and impressively good (and worth the 50-minute wait). But the drawcard is beef from the wood-fired grill. 

There’s an overwhelming choice to narrow down, but no matter what you choose, it arrives expertly cooked and accompanied by an array of mustards, horseradishes and béarnaise. If you’re too full for dessert, don’t worry – with a range of petit fours tucked into the dessert menu you can end the night on a sweet mouthful of passionfruit truffle. 

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