There’s also the brown and orange floral pattern on the crockery that every Adelaide household seemed to have in the ’70s and an informal feel-good factor that has echoes of a time when life was less complicated.

Chef Enzo Verdino is from Italy’s north and, while the menu reflects this background to a point, it also contains a smattering of red sauce and dishes more associated with hotter climes. A puck of surprisingly delicate baked polenta is filled with a medley of mushrooms and smothered in a ladle-load of triple-cheese (provolone, fontina, parmesan) sauce. 

House-made strands of fettuccine are coated in a ragu made with an unusual mix of turkey and chicken mince, that bubbles away with red wine and passata until as cosy as a handknitted jumper. Veal scaloppine slices are topped with sage and prosciutto, saltimbocca style, then hidden beneath a blanket of braised Swiss brown mushrooms. Fried discs of semolina gnocchi, the ideal sop for all the juices, just about steal the show

The introduction of a booking system is one of the few things to have changed over the years – and definitely for the better.

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