Couples and groups young and old share in spirited conversation and staff seem to be having a good time. There’s a sense that this is what all dining out should be: relaxed, convivial, with food produced with love and care by the kitchen team headed by co-owner/chef Karena Armstrong.

The Salopian is famous for its dumplings and pork buns, but other “small delights” might win you over. Like hiramasa kingfish sashimi, spiked with Japanese flavours of soy and ponzu, decorated with watermelon radish and daikon that, like much of the vegies and other produce, are grown in the patch at Armstrong’s home. Char-kissed local squid is tossed with fresh kohlrabi and fennel, and a quince-based hot sauce.

For something richer, tender braised kangaroo tail in chilli caramel is unctuous and sticky sweet. If you’re in for a set menu, you might catch one of Karena’s freestyle plays, such as roast chicken, salt-baked onions and gravy.

A wide-ranging drinks list and red wine cellar caters for all tastes, while rock star waiters will have you feeling at home. If desserts aren’t usually your thing, the Salopian’s version of not-too-sweet tiramisu will have you leaving abuzz for all the right reasons.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.