Echoing the dramatically styled dining room is the food – a modern, share-style menu by Jason Margaritis elevated by clever technique and the best of local ingredients.

Start with snacks, a chicken burger on an ethereal bao-like bun, the poultry fried until the exterior snaps and juices spill from its heart; or a red prawn tartare with a chilled coconut and crab relish ready to be scooped up with bubbly crab crackers.

The endearing and well-drilled wait staff will advise on the heat level of each dish and diners will want a solid tolerance for chilli with the green papaya salad that can bring tears to the eyes with its fiery, limey dressing. A sweet, creamy red duck curry is the ideal foil to the lingering heat, even better when paired with croissant-like flaky roti.

The drinks list also provides plenty to tame the flames such as a local or Japanese beer, or a glass of wine from the inventive, European-leaning, food-focused collection. Just be sure to finish with an unexpectedly light chocolate dessert with a mascarpone and yoghurt custard apple ice cream delivering sourness and refreshment.

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