It is a bunch of mates, with an altruistic spirit and can-do attitude, who have relied on hard work and creativity. All the renovations have been DIY, the personal treasures brought from home. The terrace at front, with planter boxes and open fires, feels like a big back yard. 

While issues such as sustainability are important, they are approached pragmatically. The kitchen buys into this ethos with cooking that should keep the regulars on side, while bringing a different crowd. There is still a schnitzel, roast and burger. They don’t mind a bit of fun either. Beef tartare is accompanied by that front bar staple Smith’s crisps and served in the torn-open packet, while trendy anchovy soldiers are loaded with green aioli.

Potato gnocchi and a mix of “fancy shrooms” are coated in a superrich, creamy blue cheese sauce to create a dish you might want to share. Kangaroo schnitzel fits with the focus on sustainability and shines alongside textbook mash and a cracking pepper sauce, while roasted chicken with bread sauce and gravy brings back memories of special family dinners. 

The crackle of bruleed sugar on top of custard on a fresh lemon tart is an added bonus.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.