In the process, part-owners Guy Parkinson (chef) and Candice Leighton (manager) have cemented their place as linchpins of the region’s dining revival. From the street, a sliding door opens to the shelves and chillers of a deli section selling everything from packaged goods and cheeses, to elite cuts of beef and pork for the DIY brigade.

Beyond that is the bistro where the dinner menu reads like the European soccer draw: France v Italy v Spain v something vaguely Scandi, all interpreted through a regional lens. A puffed pork crackling cracker topped with a splat of duck liver pate and preserved cherry serves early notice that, when a recipe calls for naughty gear, Guy rarely holds back.

Pumpkin gnocchi are flash-fried in brown butter and sage until the accompanying muscatels are shrivelled and have the flavour of the fruit at the top of a Christmas cake. Boston Bay pork chop is grilled on a wood fire under a weight that helps the marbling render evenly, its bacony qualities working beautifully with a sauce bolstered with marinated prunes.

To finish, an exemplary buttermilk panna cotta comes with “cool weather fruits”. Earlier in the day, an affordable lunch menu includes pizza, pasta, steak and a burger, while the bar upstairs will re-open when the weather is kinder.

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