There is no restaurant in Australia — perhaps the world — like Sepia.

Sure there are many that share similar traits. Sophistication, avant-garde food, audaciousness , precision and an ability to leave diners breathless, but chef Martin Benn’s unique ability to combine the technical worlds of French and Japanese cookery with Australian produce is something completely else.

Couple that with the New York brasserie meets Japanese kaiseki (albeit much more refined) atmosphere and a front-of-house machine run by Vicki Wild and you have quite a unique experience.

Since inception in 2009 it has evolved from business-crowd bistro to one of the world’s best, and yet even with the string of accolades, owners Benn and Wild have not paused for breath — and continue to evolve even though they plan to move in 2018 for a new adventure.

At Sepia the devil is in the detail. From the meticulous, personable service and intimidation-free flight through sommelier Rodney Setter’s wine list to the suspension of disbelief in Benn’s culinary creations.

Yellowfin tuna sashimi is rolled and filled with jamon iberico cream. Sushi rice arrives adorned in black truffle. Sea urchin crowns bone marrow on toasted breadmilk. Meanwhile Japanese pickles counter the richness of slow-cooked then lightly charred David Blackmore’s wagyu karubi. Then before you know it, The Pearl lands like an out of space orb crashing on your plate and the infamous jewels of crunch, chew and cream in his signature chocolate forest just astound.

No wonder Sepia is one of our most-awarded restaurants.

Must eat: Bonito, flavours of roasted chicken, smoked soy sauce, caviar