Roll up your sleeves, settle on a stool close to the action and watch as a battle-hardened team tames the fire-breathing monster of a kitchen at Shobosho.

Bronzed chooks spin slowly on a rotisserie, their claws reaching out like youngsters on a rollercoaster ride. White-hot coals are lifted gingerly from the furnace.

Skewers of beef are turned with nimble fingers over the yakitori grills. For his first foray into the Asian kitchen, Simon Kardachi (Press, Oggi, Melt etc.) has brought home Adam Liston, an accomplice from days long gone, whose most recent foray was a yakitori-based restaurant in Melbourne.

What the pair have created here is more ambitious, incorporating Japanese, Korean and other influences. This is aided by a ripping drinks selection in which wine and sake are equal stakeholders.

Start with a cracker piled with mayo-bound prawn pieces, topped by a butterflied cutlet poached in dashi, a clear frontrunner for the year’s best snack.

Sake-cured kingfish, rolled in burnt nori and onion powder, is draped over slices of green apple, dashi concentrate and fresh wasabi.

Cubes of Korean-BBQ-style rump are dropped directly on to logs of glowing charcoal, so the edges become crisp and singed. Use a pair of tongs to pry the meat away, then roll in a lettuce leaf with a selection of condiments including a white miso you won’t be able to leave alone.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.