Ollie Gould’s new Perth digs, like its clientele, are none too shabby. The one-time Stokehouse head chef is wowing Perth’s Western Suburbs crowd as much as the Indian Ocean view. It’s beach chic meets expensive eats, with a distinctly Hamptons vibe.

Hospo mover and shaker Scott Taylor (The Trustee, Beaufort Local, Enrique’s School for to Bullfighting) hasn’t scrimped. From the beacshide deck to the plush banquettes there’s a simple, clean but quality first approach. It has the looks to match the locale and the locals.

First impressions count and while front of house is polite, they’ve not quite hit their stride. Handed off in a relay of four servers, it’s a torturous way to be seated. Wine ordered for mains is served as the last mouthfuls are taken and sides not suggested when so obviously needed. It’s busy but this is top dollar territory and there’s only so much leeway that amazing view can get you.

It could easily slide from here but there’s a saviour. Bartender James Connolly  – now to be found slinging at newly opened Long Chim – crafted a list that includes a clutch of Bloody Marys with increments of heat exploring vodka, gin tequila and bacon washed bourbon. Yes that’s right: bacon, bourbon, Bloody Mary. Followed by Gould’s beef tartare, this is what weekend rituals are made of. Shrugging off the macho posture of a hunk of minced beef and a raw egg, Gould adds depth with fish sauce, fried capers and lemon zest; rye crumble and lentil, chickpea and alfalfa sprouts give herbaceous crunch; bright summery romesco cuts the fat. A dish that’s not playing the same old tune.

The Josper woodfired grill earns its keep with its own section on the menu. Moist beef short rib, smoked with jarrah, succumbs to the fork, an umami hit from enoki mushrooms, savoury honey and smoke. Gould has it constantly working with surf, turf and veggies used throughout the menu.

Bouillabaisse with its rich pleasing broth could be a standout if not for overdone snapper and prawns. It’s a menu fixture that will change with seasonal availability and if the broth is anything to go by it’s worth a second chance. A note for the hospo trend setters: please bring back the bread basket in 2016; a hunk of bread to mop up, as the Marseillais would, was missed.

Service blips aside, Shorehouse is a blueprint for good eating in Perth: Coastal, laidback and refined. Add a sunset and you’ve hit the dining jackpot.