Twosomes with an interest in the cooking should book a seat overlooking the action; otherwise, there are cosy booths and veranda tables. The decor across all areas is cool, smart, and much more understated than the food.

The chef’s set menu is $78 or $95 for the “primo” selection, both highly recommended. First drinks will be accompanied by a snack of wonton crisps layered with whipped edamame and flamed nori. Next, a single scallop each is an oh-my moment, with the plump, sweet morsel in the finest crumb laid on a dab of miso mayo and topped with more-ish curly wisps of crunchy potato.

Don’t be deterred by the single scallop price tag ($9) if you’re going a-la carte. To follow will likely be crab noodles, excellent dumplings, tempura beans with a tasty smattering of salted egg yolk, wonderful wagyu-stuffed mushrooms, wagyu rump cap with wasabi butter, and more. Be sure to sample from the house-specialty tempura section, including the absolutely best onion rings with lashings of burnt French onion dip.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.