Cool artworks on precise slate-clad walls at the entrance are a reflection of the Scandi and black notes elsewhere, while an open kitchen/bar is wrapped in ribs of blond timber. The sense of style is mirrored in the service and menu, where faults are hard to find.

The $75 feed-me three-course lunch (plus $25 for matched wines) is worth considering because a la carte decisions aren’t easy to make. Head chef Tristran Steele watches over proceedings, checking every flourish; the sheer size of the team meaning nothing needs to be rushed.

To start, one incredibly tender chunky tentacle of octopus is in a dream partnership with fun plops of miso caramel and squid ink aioli, as well as bright bursts of fresh orange. Touch the Pikes stout-glazed beef rib and it collapses into shreds, mingling with fried enoki mushrooms and kale. A lamb rump is glistening pink with touches of char, perfect to sweep through skordalia and figs grown on the property.

A ginger cake carries pleasantly firm butter-poached quince, pecan crumbs and a never-enough ricotta ice cream. Just watch your teeth on the toffeed pear garnish.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.