One dish in and I’m convinced Shannon Martinez is an alchemist. Dinner at her new vegan temple in Collingwood opens with stuffed flatbreads that make my brain and mouth disconnect. The smell, taste and texture remind me of Turkish lahmacun, a doughy pizza with spiced lamb mince. But of course, it’s not lamb. It’s some sort of Martinez magic.

The spell deepens with bite-sized “blue cheese” loukoumades, sticky Greek doughnuts stuffed with almond-based “cheese” and glazed in date syrup. More like a dessert than a starter, but no one’s complaining.

Likewise, an Italian-inspired dish of fried eggplant lacquered in agrodolce (sweet and sour) fig caramel also veers into pudding territory. All crunch on the surface and velvety smooth inside, the bite of balsamic and crunch of toasted hazelnuts keeps things on the safe side of savoury.

Smith & Daughters is one of the most rewarding restaurants I’ve dined at in ages, and not just for the food.

There’s an electric energy to the place – fuelled by the open kitchen and its centrepiece flame grill – and a distinctive decor.

It ticks the exposed brick-industrial boxes of contempo Melbourne dining but also comes with plenty of quirk: the velvet banquettes and clashing cushions, the private dining dais for 20, the second-hand dining chairs and tables, the cloud chandelier of grey-black tulle.

Staff bustle about the space in belted black robes like gothic togas. They are, to a person, warm and engaging. Martinez is an exuberant presence on the floor.

There’s no pretension but sometimes there are slips. Our cocktails, ordered straight after sitting down, simply don’t arrive. After 30 minutes I mention the lack of liquids to our waiter and she’s shocked and apologetic.

When they do come all is forgiven. The Bay Negroni is based around a plum-infused sloe gin with bay leaf. It tastes herbal and healthy and loosens my shoulders nicely.

Afterwards, I order an Adelaide Hills fume blanc from the short wine list that turns out to be the perfect match for our meal.

I’ve never eaten Martinez’s food before and worried this would make me unsuited to reviewing the latest, greatest incarnation of her vegan vision. But after dining at Smith & Daughters, I suspect I’m precisely the target audience. This is meat-free dining for the masses. If she can win omnivores like me over to meat-free dining, surely she can charm anyone.

Anyone who needs convincing of vegan deliciousness must order the flatbread but also the charcoal chicken. It’s made from seitan, which is essentially flour and water, basted in cumin, allspice, sweet paprika and more. Flamed over the grill for char and smoke. Add some chilli oil and harissa cream and, well, I can’t believe it’s not chicken. That brain- disconnect thing again.

Desserts don’t usually thrill me but I have one here I won’t forget in a long time.

Galaktoboureko is a Greek semolina custard, wrapped in kataifi (filo thread) pastry, sat on a berry syrup with a scoop of wild strawberry sorbet. It is oh-my-god good.

How do you even make vegan custard?

The answer is soy milk, but Martinez somehow manages to make it taste eggy and capture the lactose-sweet, vanilla notes of boiled milk. Bonkers. She truly is the alchemist of Cambridge St.

Related reviews: Nigella Lawson is headlining the 30th anniversary of the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival