What started life in 1912 as The Cleveland Inn still displays retro posters on its pub-yellow tiled street walls – curvy beach girls in ruched swimsuits, billowing yacht sails on teal-blue harbour waves, pitching the joys of KB Lager, Reschs Pilsener and Carlton Draught.

Re-named in the 1990s, what’s now Bar Cleveland faithfully continues the old-school pub mix: front bar, back bar, bistro, terrace, bottle shop and VIP lounge. And yes, beside schooners and middies, you’ve got your schnitties, burgers and weekend lamb roast.

That said, the lamb roast is Greek style, the fit-out is fresh and there’s a new restaurant upstairs called Sofia On Cleveland.

Sofia is co-owner Sophie Bousgas’s Greek-born grandmother who instilled in her a love of cooking.

Via a stairwell replicating the black and white of the streetside blackboard plugging Trivia nights, Sunday Recovery bloody mary and jug specials and the weekend lamb roast, Sofia is a step up, literally, from the busy drinking hole below. The look is local but spruced to smart casual. And the share-plate menu makes decidedly Mediterranean moves in this refreshed former function and poolroom space, now an airy first-floor dining room with a chargrill, exposed brick, high woven-backed stools and open heritage beams.

Replica olive trees hang with decorative fruit “planted” in strategically placed barrels. With former fine-dining chef Justin North on board alongside in-house chef Nathan Treleaven (ex Cabra-Vale Diggers), the menu has a very 2022 slant – cured ocean trout and fennel entree, chargrilled cauliflower or grass-fed beef with red-wine jus mains and on almost every table, fries with grated parmesan and truffle. The wine list is full of nicely-priced bottles, mostly Aussie with a few Italians, French and Spaniards thrown in. And, like everything else here, the occasional Greek note.