As the bamboo lid is lifted, a cloud of steam dissipates to reveal pink, yellow and cream steam buns, beautifully hand-turned to look like roses.

The rose buns embody not only the life and colour of cuisine from Yunnan, China’s most south-westerly province, but that of Spring Yunnan too.

There have always been amazing eating experiences hidden in Sydney’s Chinatown, but Spring Yunnan is something a bit different. It’s not just the lashings of flavour that make it stand out – it’s also the unusual decor and enthusiasm of the staff.

Giant gold chandeliers illuminate a traditional mural of three women celebrating spring beside a peacock. There are bold colour panels in blue, red, green and yellow, cobblestone floors and worn wooden tables – as if they’ve plonked you down at a wonderful, local alfresco feast.

The unique mix of cultures within its cuisine means you’ll experience both familiar and new flavours. Mapo tofu places more emphasis on the slabs of silken tofu and spices than the pork mince sauce. It’s very satisfying.

Soup dumplings with a thick dough, deep umami broth and delicate pork are gorgeous, while the crisp crunch and soft centre of battered eggplant is perfectly accompanied by a sweet, sour and spicy dipping sauce. There’s a panfried potato pancake, stir-fried flat noodles and even a vegan plate of crisp vegies not unlike French crudite.

A chicken bone broth is wonderfully cleansing, while the Yunnan signature rice noodles is a do-it-yourself hotpot. Dip seafood, meat or vegetables into an egg wash, then straight into the deep, clear pork broth with rice noodles.

Spring Yunnan is very affordable, BYO and offers food infused with lively energy. It proves the best experiences need not hit you in the hip pocket.