Many Perth diners already know of Will Meyrick, his Bali eateries Mama San, Sarong and Hujan Locale on the radar of island regulars. For those once unfamiliar with the Scottish chef, who honed his skills at Sydney’s Longrain and Jimmy Liks and across Asia, the secret is out: bookings for Will St. were initially impenetrable.

There’s no faux-Balinese styling here, the 120-seat restaurant and bar a blend of rough-hewn sandstone, blackbutt flooring and arrangements of dried wildflowers from WA’s Mid West, suspended from the ceiling. It’s all in line with Meyrick’s menu: contemporary and stylish.

Vibrant and saline, Akoya oysters from Albany are lifted with buttermilk, green chilli, chardonnay vinegar and a dab of sea parsley oil. It’s one of the best expressions I’ve seen of this increasingly ubiquitous ingredient – which leans more to being mussel-like than, say, a rock oyster.

Smoked eel betel leaf is umami laden thanks to dried shrimp and delivers a whack of heat from the layering of chilli, pepperberry leaf, nam prik and jaew bong.

Calcutta-inspired slow-cooked goat nihari with warrigal greens is all comfort, with a subtle heat that takes complexity from saffron, mustard oil and yoghurt.

The signature char siew pork hock is a showstopper. Pulling the fragrant, sweet,
spicy meat from the bone is the theatre of the dish, but the supporting cast – braised miso cabbage, Sichuan pickled cucumber, Davidson plum and Mandarin pancakes – deserve their own curtain call.

Related restaurant reviews: Go rogue at this new Perth wine bar by the Le Rebelle team