The seascape looms large, filling the expanse of dining room windows, lapping beneath your feet, it seems, on the deck. It’s like being aboard a cruise liner without the swaying. 

Significant changes to the Star by owners Doug and Nikki Govan have taken the restaurant’s connection to its surrounds to another level and the message hasn’t been lost on the head chef tag-team of Michael Collins and Jason Coppin either.

Visiting the Star without eating squid is like going to Naples and avoiding the pizza. Salt and pepper calamari is a permanent fixture among the entrees, while a main course version adds a tickle of Sichuan pepper to the coating and drops a bigger serve of fried bits and pieces beside a salad of julienned greenish mango, cucumber, kimchi, mixed herbs and a gentle chilli dressing.

Coorong mullet laps up the attention of celeriac puree, shredded apple remoulade and a fried slice of black chorizo. A chowder-like bowl of soup/ sauce with potato and Goolwa pipis is accompanied by a grilled swordfish steak that has been brined and is far too salty.

The Star’s wine list is an attraction in its own right and, with excellent waiting staff, it’s no wonder the restaurant is incredibly busy.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.