Some may call ordering extras from a carefully assembled chef’s menu greedy or rude, but I think it’s a tasty compliment. So aside from the sweet, smoky, crisp ribs, about the third in a long line of compact dishes, I could have also ordered more of the fat, oily swordfish or the sweet carpaccio with anchovies.

Clearly the fish were biting the day I visited Templo, a tiny eatery on the edge of Hobart’s CBD, as the brief blackboard menu was largely made up of ocean protein. The place opened recently and from all accounts, has already converted the masses.

As suggested, you can eat a satisfying selection of the chef’s favourites or go it alone. The charming Chilean waitress will support either decision, and chat you through the foreign wine list that’s more a few dot points designed to compliment the small menu. A wicked Spanish Cullerot and chalky Italian Barbera were spot on. If you’d prefer to BYO, you’re more than welcome for $15. A pitcher of ruby sangria sits atop the bar tiled 70s mustard. You and a friend could perch here with a cafeteria view to the kitchen, where chef Matt dishes up without much help but with great ease. Other places to park include a round share timber table under the gaze of exposed brick or with your other half by the window. You’ll hear snippets from your neighbour and even from the kitchen as the place is teensy and uncluttered, but who doesn’t like to earwig?

We reach the pinnacle with bulbous fried brioche and lemon semi-freddo slab with a sprinkle of pistachio, and what an enlightening journey it’s been. It’s all very easy and unfeigned – I speak in particular of co-owner Chris, here – and goes to show a little can make a delectable, captivating lot.

Ensure you book plus keep an eye on Instagram for flashes of the daily offerings. I realise keeping menus fresh and the punters guessing is all the rage but gosh I hope the ribs stay. Please, Templo?

Tel: 03 6234 7659

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