For the most part, there are two types of Greek restaurant. The blue shutter, white-washed stereotype where chips are served in baking dishes and the chefs bring the food to the table and then stay the meal to chat, and this type. A dolled-up crowd appears for Jonathan Barthelmess’ smash-up of undoubtedly Hellenic cuisine that’s prepared to sway from the rut of traditional dishes that inspire a collective yawn.

Architect George Livissianis (also the man behind Cho Cho San’s minimalist elegance across the road, also owned by Barthelmess), has brought exposed concrete, granite and brass touches to the room, creating a light, lofty space.

A jar of smooth taramasalata – properly made using whipped soft sourdough bread and grey mullet fish roe – is crowned generously with salmon roe. Oregano-flecked pita triangles are the only thing saving you from sticking your finger right in there. Richly savoury vine leaf parcels encase tender layers of roasted onion and braised pork, while a hot cast iron pan spectacularly delivers The Apollo’s stringy, salty fried haloumi, bubbling in floral honey and sprinkled with oregano.

The Greek-style chicken, charred and barbecued on the bone, is one of the most sought after birds in Sydney, while the oven-baked lamb shoulder is pink and tender, pieces of fatty skin and meat fall in pieces from the bone. Scoop up the surrounding bath of Greek yoghurt sauce, squeezed over lemon. It’s a delicious play of flavours that might go some way to explain why Barthelmess named the place after the Greek god of poetry, light and music. There’s a great, funk-laden soundtrack playing, but poetry and light? It’s all about the lamb, and it would be a (Greek) tragedy to skip it.

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