What makes this duck so defiant? For a start, it’s a very relaxed duck, despite having recently landed in a rather hoity-toity part of town, where eating and drinking establishments tend to take themselves a tad too seriously.

It also defies pigeonholing. Parts of the sprawling, open-pavilion-style space, with its polished concrete floors and industrial bare-bulb lighting feel like a gastro pub; think daily happy hours, board games and even a couple of pool tables. Step outside to the breezy terrace overlooking the gardens for more of a restaurant vibe. If a proper meal is your intention, there’s a decent selection of wine to go with it. Or perch on a stool the bar and choose from 24 ever-changing beers on tap – or a very appealing, reasonably priced cocktail list – we love the Orange Blossom, with Aperol, orange juice, orange bitters, basil and sparkling wine.

The food menu is easier to pin down, aptly describing itself as “all star American fare with a dash of Southern hospitality”, with friendly, laid-back wait staff delivering the latter in spades. They’ll make you welcome whether it’s an all-in rollicking afternoon of drinks and bar snacks, dinner for two, or share plates for a larger get-together.

From the starters and snacks section, chicken wings from the charcoal-fuelled Josper oven are as tender, juicy and smoky as promised, served in the requisite basket with red-and-white chequered greaseproof paper, properly-hot chilli sauce and tasty blue-cheese dressing. Mac ‘n’ cheese croquettes also sound like the perfect antidote to a boozy afternoon session, served with a pretty red cabbage slaw and Philly cream cheese. But alas, they have been a tad too long in the fryer – their crunchy outer crumb a little dry, revealing a filling ratio that is too much mac, and too little cheese. Onion rings on the other hand are delightfully crisp, light and delicious, having been battered with Cricketers Arms Spearhead Pale Ale and served with a tart pickle dip.

From the larger plates, cola-glazed Wagyu ribs are fall-off-the-bone delicious, with mustard mayo and slaw – available as either a half or full rack. There’s also pork ribs served with carrot and fennel slaw and barbeque sauce, alongside southern fried chicken, charcoal butterflied chicken and steak.

There are just three dessert options, and the cherry pie a la mode with vanilla bean ice cream and cherry sherbet – with its single-crust and thinnish layer of fruit – falls a little short of the down-home “sweet home Alabama” promise.

Hopefully the kitchen gets all its ducks in a row, because on the whole this is a fun addition to the Newstead dining precinct.

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