Change is vital, for all of us. It makes us feel alive. For chefs, it’s one thing to truly express yourself on a plate, but one should never rest on one’s laurels. Soon enough the boots will feel like concrete blocks.

Change is one of the hardest challenges to tackle, but it can help put new blood in your veins.

Often chefs looking to re-engage undergo a ‘tree change’ and leave the big smoke. Rarely do they do it the other way around. And yet, here we have it.

Head chef Joel Bickford leaving Bowral’s award-winning Biota and landing smack bang under the Coat Hanger (Harbour Bridge) at Pier One’s The Gantry Restaurant and Bar.

I get the sense Bickford didn’t necessarily want to leave Biota. It’s clear his connection with executive chef and owner James Viles and the produce of the surrounds left an indelible mark on him, but perhaps opportunity offered the promise to re-invent himself.

Whatever the reason, the result is a win for the diner.

Pier One Hotel went through a major re-development last year including new restaurant The Gantry under the watchful eye of Canadian chef Chris Irving. Architectural firm Bates Smart delivered a sophisticated, yet comfortable atmosphere with weathered timber flooring, brass fixtures and dark brown wooden chairs and tables. It offers views of al fresco diners enjoying the waves that slap up against the pier. It’s smart and the in-the-round style bar is a destination on its own.

Nothing in that sense has changed, but Bickford’s food has re-invigorated the space. He has the lightness of Biota, though only in glimpses. Mostly his food is richer, deeper and reliant on a classical backbone.

Sweetbreads are dusted and fried ever so gently to ensure the creamy texture and subtle offal flavour is not lost. A parsnip swoosh, sliver of king brown and braised cows tail make it quite the heavy, but satisfying starter. The confit cuts of chook oyster land with a glimmering egg yolk adorned in black ash that we’re told to combine. It helps bring the dish together, but it’s the corn, as puree and kernels, that shine through. It’s a tad under seasoned and I can give or take the ash. And Monkfish, quite a fleshy fish, stands up superbly to the salty ham hock and sunchoke that support it. Of course blushing lamb loin and gooey belly bring the best out of the beast. It’s bang on and the baby leeks and undertones of tarragon let the lamb sing. I want more.

Finally, tremendous technique allow strawberry – marshmellow, sorbet, freeze dried and fresh – to deliver a sweet surrender.

It’s bloody good eating, but I feel we haven’t seen the best of him yet. The Gantry feels like a work in progress.

The wine list is a fairly basic hit list of familiar drops and doesn’t quite live up to Bickford’s food. But its brevity is appreciated. No one has three days to read a 500-page sommeliers wet dream. Not during dinner anyway. But The Gantry could do with a sommelier. Most of us need some guidance.

But, the service is sweet and super efficient. Our waitresses enthusiasm, honesty and sincerity were appreciated – “The monkfish, great that’s my favourite, so well done on ordering that one.”

I felt like I won a prize. It seems Sydney has too. Bickford is a great fit. He’s worked out the balance between invention and market needs and he’s not afraid to chance his arm. Once he’s fully settled, he may be the driving force behind a change in perception of hotel dining down under.

Tel: (02) 8298 9910

Social feed