The Merivale formula for success is in full swing at Italian eatery Totti’s. The current ‘IT’ restaurant of Bondi, Totti’s hits that sweet spot of casual neighbourhood meets eastern suburbs chic, a magnet for a young, trendy, well-heeled crowd, who don’t mind dropping $100 a head on a Tuesday night. Take a seat in the airy, Mediterranean-inspired courtyard and expect the same polished and knowledgeable service that makes Merivale such a consistent success.

Our wait staff take the time to guide us through a lengthy antipasti menu, and implore “the bread, get the bread.” The oversized wood-fired bread pocket comes ballooning with hot steam and showered in crunchy salt flakes. Alongside just-lemony house marinated sardines, a creamy schmear of duck liver parfait or a spoonful of burrata bursting open to a puddle of cream, you can see why it’s essential. There’s serious expertise in this kitchen, headed up by Mike Eggert and Khan Danis, and they know what the diner wants.

A-for-effort with a house-made version of ‘nduja, a spreadable salami that’s softer than the Calabrian original, but nicely spiced with paprika and chilli. Pastas are skilfully made and cooked (although a bit heavy on the salt), but some sauces could use more gusto, like the lamb ragu, which is heavily reduced, but lacking in complexity. Prawn casserecce, however, is a scarlet red tomato sauce cleverly enriched through the use of prawn shells to build layers of umami. Expect a well-curated wine list, but be warned it’ll rack your bill up, with a glass of Arneis or nebbiolo going for a pricey $22-plus a glass. It’s a cog in the machine, and if it’s consistency you are after, Merivale brings home a win once again.