With eight years and a 2019 delicious. 100 title to its name, Balaclava’s beloved eatery is even better with age. Uysal’s Turkish cuisine is elevated, hug-in-a-bowl, soul-warming stuff that’ll have your happy hormones humming.

Dial up the flavour with scallops bobbing in a sunny smoked saffron foam with chickpeas, or crowd-pleasing tiny Turkish dumplings (manti) in a sour yoghurt and chive oil. Or even the excellent fall-apart tender lamb with apricot jam, smoked eggplant and sticky pomegranate molasses; or the rule-bending chicken and milk pudding dessert that’s mind-bogglingly good.

But perhaps the padisah sums up Tulum best – swipe toasted bread into a glossy pool of burnt butter, caramelised onion and oozy egg to unearth salty wagyu beef pastirma strips beneath.

Add a dim-lit dining room, switched-on staff and a good line-up of Turkish wine and you’re set. And with mains hovering around $20, it’s impressive, clever cooking at great prices.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.