For a restaurant with so much to say, it’s puzzling (and almost a little ironic) this Richmond newcomer has done little with its name.

Like songs and art before it, Untitled wants you to define it. I’ll go first.

Untitled is the place you go for “just one wine” but leave raving about the Russian honey cake. Well, it is a sensational send off.

Tightly packed, millimetre-thin layers of cake spiced with cinnamon and burnt honey, and cream are coated in a glossy golden butterscotch sauce that’s lip-smackingly good.

It’d be happy days if you started and ended on this, but you’d be sorry if you did.

Hospo mates David Abela, Andrew Ryan and Daniel Vid’s new venue is more than just another Richmond wine bar.

And different to its first, The Ugly Duckling, which has been roosting comfortably on its Swan St perch for about seven years. In 2019, the trio dreamt of creating another space where people could drop in for a drink or midweek meal and return the favour time and again.

So they went next door and flipped the high-ceilinged art studio into this mysterious bistro.

Flack Studio designed a neutral-toned, tactile space that radiates sophistication with green marble-topped tables, tan timber chairs and white textured stone walls.

Head chef Timothy Martin (ex-Taxi Dining Room, The European) is on the tools, spinning simple Euro-style plates in a casual setting.

Oysters, pea and ricotta arancini, prosciutto-wrapped rockmelon, or the daily baked Fougasse-inspired sourdough with salted butter make easy, early bites.

A busted burrata oozes wonderfully creamy juices onto the plate, drizzled with curry spice mix vadouvan and sweet corn kernels. Curry and cheese? Yes please. A brilliant, balanced snack hack that begs to be slathered on some of that bread (if you spared any).

Get in before they retire the smoked pork terrine with sharp mustard and bitey pickle, but perhaps it’s better to save room for the duck ragu gnocchi which is a hug in a bowl. Supple potato pillows, drenched in decadent, caramelised duck juices and 12-hour slow-cooked meat is comfortingly warm and wickedly good (I seriously hope you didn’t eat all your bread).

Staff charmingly divvy up the serves between two, which I love, as it avoids an awkward tableside plate wrestle.

The porchetta, which is only available for dinner, is soft and crackly where it counts and substantial enough to share if you’ve been nibbling away until now, after all, you have to save room for that cake. Or the other sweet treat, a chocolate delice that’s just as indulgent – a rich chocolate mousse, showered in crunchy wattleseed and salted caramel.

Naturally, wine takes the lead on the drinks front, with Stephen Ruse pouring crowd-pleasing Aussie and Euro drops.

A classic cocktail selection keeps things simple, but why not stay on brand by sipping The Spritz with No Name. What is Untitled? Your turn to decide.

Related review: Smith & Daughters delivers meat-free dining for the masses