Remarkably, the restaurant has been trading for more than 25 years and is as good as ever, with the same co-owner/chef, Peter Clarke, in charge of the kitchen throughout this time.

His menu remains innovative, with Korean beef tartare with nashi pear and fermented chilli, or fried pigs ears with BBQ sauce examples of a cuisine which defies being locked into a particular category. Roasted heirloom carrots with sheep’s milk yoghurt, honey and baharat is given an extra lift with pomegranate seeds and fine shavings of lightly roasted, slightly chewy garlic.

Starters include numerous seafood options, raw and cooked, such as kingfish with white soy and cultured yuzu cream, or grilled octopus with potato and chickpeas. The chargrilled scotch fillet has a good seared crust and is cooked as ordered, though the cut is surprisingly chewy. For afters, the passionfruit souffle sprouts from the ramekin, as fluffy as a cloud, and the dark chocolate marquise is set off with a piquant native plum. 

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