For those who are yet to dine at Vue de monde, don’t worry. The hits you’ve heard about are still on show: the “snags” to cook on the barbie, the marshmallow to twirl over fire and that extraordinary cheese trolley. Then there’s the chocolate soufflé, that’s like eating the clouds you can see just outside the window of the sleek 55th floor dining room.

But with young chef Hugh Allen now at the helm – fresh from a three-year stint at Noma – you might find the new creations even more memorable.

There’s rarely seen maturity on show in such dishes as urchin with bunya bunya cream, or velvety cured kangaroo with salsify, that simply let the extraordinary produce shine. Others, including marron with a native curry broth, are as technically perfect as they are spectacularly lick-the-plate good. 

A fun sense of Australiana (see Iced Vo Vos and Tim Tams served in a retro tin to end) teamed with a judicious use of native ingredients proves a winning combination for gastro tourists and local celebrations alike. 

Vue de monde is still one of the most expensive dining experiences in the country and the wine list needs a redraw facility to properly explore, but for a for a clear vision of contemporary Australia on the plate, there are few that do it so well, so consistently.

Must Eat Dish: Western Australian marron “curry”