Review: This celebrity burger chain needs more than star power to shine

Wahlburgers supplied

This hamburger joint will need more than a celebrity namesake to succeed in a flooded market.

They’re the famous American family who turned their love for burgers and serendipitous name into a global fast food franchise.

Now A-list celebrity Mark Wahlberg and his brothers, chef Paul and fellow actor Donnie, have brought their culinary concept to Queensland. Fittingly, the siblings have launched in the Gold Coast’s tourist hotspot, Surfers Paradise, in the flashy redeveloped Paradise Centre, which opened in September just a fry flick from the beach.

Wahlburgers is as prominent as Marky Mark’s cheese-grater abs in his ’90s Calvin Klein commercials, with neon green chairs lining the covered, L-shaped deck and a glowing sign that reads Surfers Paradise emblazoned across the back wall.

Wahlburgers supplied

The rest of the emerald-hued interior is awash with black and white Wahlburger family photos and TV screens playing sport, while an engraved panel sits above the well-stocked bar displaying a list of Mark’s movie titles. Diners are welcomed and told to sit anywhere and order on their phone using a QR code, but to wave someone down if they need help.

Just make sure you don’t require assistance discovering what ingredients are in certain dishes, with our eager-to-please but uninformed waiter unable to tell us what was in a particular salad dressing despite repeated attempts and even a visit to the kitchen to ask. Said salad dressing is also as tasteless as the cringe-worthy Daddy’s Home 2 film Mark starred in.

Wahlburgers supplied

Despite drowning every leaf, corn kernel and dice of tomato in the salmon and crispy tortilla salad ($23), the supposed ranch is completely void of the honey and lime flavouring it promises. Thankfully, the well-seared salmon on a mess of leaves is more than generously seasoned, providing minimal redemption.

What could also do with a flavour boost is the venue’s version of an Aussie burger ($19). It takes chef Paul’s classic burger with a beef patty, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, American cheese and “Wahl sauce” and adds beetroot, pineapple and a fried egg. What’s missing though is the chariness of a flame-grilled beef patty – scorched and bar-marked – and some good ol’ tomato sauce for that salty-sweet acidity.

Perhaps the “Aussie chicken schnitty” burger ($18.50) would be better, or one of the other 13 burgers, including the crispy fish bun creation, a vegetarian option and two vegan numbers.

The restaurant’s line-up of loaded fries includes a chicken salt and Vegemite aioli incarnation, and a spicy cheese and bacon rendition ($15.50) as mild as a Darwin winter.

Wahlburgers supplied

What Wahlburgers does well though is milkshakes, with an apple pie concoction ($12) like a liquid version of American diner nostalgia.

Customers can even order it spiked with Melbourne moonshine as one of the five boozy thickshakes available, alongside some budget- friendly wines, twists on classic cocktails, alcoholic and non-alcoholic spiders and beer.

Wahlburgers is a venue built on the name of its famous owners, but it will need more to succeed in the flooded Queensland burger market than a bit of celebrity pulling power.

Related review: Ditch the rule book with Brisbane’s best bottomless brunches

9 Paradise Centre Surfers Paradise QLD 4217

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