Leave Brisbane and enter New York, all with the opening of heavy double doors beneath a stylish canopied street awning. The Upper East springs to mind, but really, this steakhouse could be anywhere in Manhattan, such is its clubby feel with timber panelled walls, red leather banquettes, luxe velvet drapes, marble topped antique sideboards, and gleaming brass accents. Floors are dressed with Persian-style rugs, and walls adorned with artwork in the eclectic, mismatched trademark of celebrated interior designer Anna Spiro.

Aesthetics aside, it’s all about food, and the steak is arguably the best in town. Eye fillet, a petite 200g, is tender and full of flavour, while the larger, dry-aged porterhouse is deliciously caramelised.

Both are perfectly cooked to order and come with a pinch of watercress and wedge of lemon. Sides are needed to round out the dish, and include buttery roasted brussels sprouts and creamed spinach. Desserts are classic New Yorkers too, with cheesecake, pecan pie and key lime pie, while entrees include bug thermidor, prawn cocktail and fluffy light pierogi. The wine list is strong and well-travelled, with a great range by the glass, and cocktails can also be enjoyed in the adjacent wine bar, which has TV screens for sports buffs. Waiters in black waistcoats complete the New York State of mind experience.

Exceptional dish: Specialty grain-fed beef, dry-aged, cut in house