It’s like frolicking through a magical cottage garden, which isn’t far from the truth. Because, as splendid as the transformation of this historic Clare Valley hotel is, it only tells part of the story.

Equally important is what is happening up the road at Penobscot Farm, the source of these ingredients. Pub and farm are owned by Warrick Duthy and Nicola Palmer, who have restored the pub with period features and contemporary flair, while a shimmering kitchen looks out on a courtyard with a fire pit and wood ovens.

A ceramic bowl of Spanish-style king prawns is not for the faint-hearted, in a dark emulsion rich with paprika. Filo cigars are filled with a lightly spiced lamb mince sourced from offcuts from the two whole carcasses purchased weekly. Whole rainbow trout is grilled and served with the tang of fresh sorrel from the garden.

A warm citrus and almond cake, still crisp at the edges from the oven, is topped with poached cumquats and lemon verbena ice-cream. It’s a memorable dessert, with the farm at its heart.

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