The website gives the day’s sunset time for people keen to arrive in time to watch the panorama morph from ocean-rimmed metropolis, to fiery colour on the horizon, then a blanket of twinkling lights. Inside the dining room, old-school elegance endures. The sense of occasion is felt on all levels from the deep comfy chairs to a friendly style of formal service.

Intimate groups are seated at ample half-round tables flanked by uninterrupted picture windows. Those on a raised tier also have great views and the benefit of a glass ceiling for star gazing. Chef Justin Miles and his team cook for each person: no sharing platters here. 

Over a five-course tasting menu he will make all but the main-course decisions for you. He awakens appetites with milk buns and balls of roasted garlic butter, alongside tiny cups of earthy vegetable soup, then a pretty dish in Woodside’s excellent buffalo feta, layered with figs, jamon, almonds and house marmalade.

Another good looker of Boston Bay pork belly on batons of polenta and truffled mushrooms comes before your chosen main (perhaps lamb shoulder or duck breast) sided by particularly good Middle Eastern pumpkin.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.