There’s nothing beige about this plant-based bistro by Bentley boys Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt. Yellow does something few restaurants manage – that is, get diners excited to eat their greens. Head chef and vegetable virtuoso Brent Savage has put together a menu devoted to the leaf, root, seed and stem, allowing the stuff of salads and sides to take centrestage for a change.

Start with the cucumber noodle furled within a cooling celery soup, the sweet and light flavours supported by a creamy, salty mound of almond puree. Next up, a torched slip of pearly onion is pumped with stretchy stracciatella and capped with nutty tonburi. And just when you thought they couldn’t keep this up any longer, a slab of chargrilled eggplant arrives as fibrous as your finest wagyu steak and just as satisfying to chew. And so it goes until you admit it’s all been brilliant. The wine list, curated by Hildebrandt, celebrates quirky new age wines; however, if it’s a bit hip for you, they can also borrow bottles from sister venue, Monopole, up the road. If you’ve given up alcohol they also shake-up some of the city’s best booze-free beverages using house-made syrups and shrubs. While the menu may be missing a few food groups, don’t expect deprivation – this is one of the most indulgent meals in town.