Mensho Tokyo’s reputation precedes it. If the line hasn’t wrapped around the block to Bourke St by the time you arrive, you’re doing well. But be prepared to wait at least 90 minutes or for the hype to die down – whichever happens first. 

Founded in 2005 in Tokyo by ramen extraordinaire Tomoharu Shono, outposts of Mensho Tokyo have sprung up in San Francisco, New Delhi and Bangkok. And as of a month ago, Melbourne, inspiring frenzied queues and TikToks. 

The setup is simple and cosy. Wraparound counter seating takes centrestage in the front section, while groups bigger than two are escorted to a second section with table seating. Ordering is swift and efficient with a QR code, that handy hangover from lockdown dining. (Note: once you order, you’ll be given an overly conservative ETA – disregard it. Everything we order arrives within 10 minutes. And they’re still in the process of securing their liquor licence.) 

Entrees are of varying levels of quality. The spicy corn wings, dusted in shichi-mi togarashi, are piquant and more-ish, though more salt wouldn’t go astray. The chicken karaage lacks signature crispness, though the accompanying vinegary honey dipping sauce is memorable. But these are only to whet our appetite before the main event: ramen. Mensho Tokyo’s crowning glory is its Michelin-winning Toripaitan, which swaps out a classic pork tonkotsu for an equally rich and creamy six-hour-simmered chicken broth. It’s a broth that tends towards the sweeter side, which is not to say it’s the overarching taste – it’s simultaneously savoury and smoky tinged with a pleasing bitterness. 

Crisp threads of enoki, bouncy kinoko, a curious combination of pork chashu and chocolate wagyu slivers, and cubes of yuzu peel make for a textural smorgasbord. 

Vegetarians and vegans are well-catered for with the vegan tantanmen. The spicy lamb ramen is not overly heat-filled, but the unctuous broth contains the strong, novel whiff of cumin due to the spiced minced lamb interspersed among the noodles. Studded with garlic cloves and swimming in a black garlic oil, the thick, alliaceous broth of the garlic blaze ramen envelops your mouth and coats every noodle strand, while the thin sliver of pork cha-shu is a slow umami burn. The latter two come topped with thin tendrils of deep-fried carrot which we recommend dunking into your broth. 

Whichever ramen you get, be sure to add a jammy ajitama egg to the fray. 

The wavy noodles, housemade from brown wheat, rye and quinoa, are springy and have a good level of resistance. Mensho doesn’t allow you to customise the texture of your noodles unlike many other ramen establishments, and their noodles are on the firmer side (i.e. perfect). 

The ramen at Mensho Tokyo is highly unusual with complex, multifaceted broths and a laundry list of ingredients that you’re unlikely to encounter anywhere else: smoked nuts, truffle cream, habanero. You’ll be within Mensho Tokyo’s confines for a far shorter stint than you were outside of it, but we dare say it’s well worth the wait.

Related review: A new ramen bar in Rushcutters Bay is proving to be an instant hit