What Australian chefs eat in Indonesia
Suckling pig is just the beginning.
Not only is Indonesia a burgeoning destination for foodies, it’s become a place where chefs go to expand their food knowledge, as well as open new restaurants.
All over Bali and other Indonesian islands, chefs head for classics such as suckling pig, murtabak from street stalls, and to the bustling new restaurants opening in Seminyak, Bali and elsewhere.
In Bali and the rest of South-East Asia, hawkers make murtabak from scratch – folding crispy, buttery pastry over spiced potato and chilli, folding and cooking over a hot grill to create crispy packages any culinary tour to the island should include.
Seminyak has changed a lot in the past 15 years, from being the tourist town that was considered a bit of a backwater to the destination for a new kind of luxe Bali getaway where there are fewer Bintang singlets and more of a focus on high-end design, glam parties and infinity pools.
The biggest change, though, has been in the food scene, which has been the subject of such an injection of talent that Seminyak now rivals global destinations for the sheer variety, depth and quality offered up.
Leading the movement is a wealth of Australian talent bringing skill and ambition to opening after opening, from Robert Marchetti (ex-North Bondi Italian and Icebergs Dining Room and Bar) overseeing the food at the Double-Six Hotel (Jl. Pantai Double Six No. 66), including the meat and seafood focused Plantation Grill, to Will Meyrick (ex-Longrain) at pan-Asian Mama San (Jl. Kerobokan No. 135) and street-food inspired Sarong (Jl. Petitenget No. 19X), and restaurateur Adrian Reed at Motel Mexicola (Jl. Kayujati No. 9X).
The latest notch on this expanding belt is chef Geoff Lindsay of hatted Melbourne Vietnamese favourite Dandelion, who in mid-2015 opened Viet beer-hall style eatery Saigon Street (Jl. Petitenget No. 77X) in partnership with Aki KotzamGeichalis, an initial investor in Seminyak’s pioneering beach bar Ku De Ta (Jl. Kayu Aya No. 9).
Geoff Lindsay’s food spans crispy rice fried prawns and sticky roasted pork belly, Vietnamese-inspired rice paper rolls.
Also in Seminyak, expat Australian chef Simon Blaby stays local at Petitenget (Jl. Petitenget Raya No. 40X) with a global menu – supplied by their own farm in Kintamani in Bali’s north – set against a Parisian-chic design.
Chef Frank Cammora is joining the fray, opening a MoVida restaurant at the new boutique Katamama hotel, run by the group behind the consistently excellent Potato Head beach club. Maurice Terzini, of Bondi’s Icebergs and Da Orazio, brings a casual Italian experience at Da Maria.
Fresh flavours can be found everywhere in Bali and beyond, like the rest of South-East Asia. Satays are served beachside, licked with irresistible peanut sauce, and green papaya salad, often drizzled with sweet and salty kecap manis, is a common side. Seasonality is key here, and both local and international chefs are guided by the produce available.
Canggu, a sleepy surf town north of Seminyak, is home to Temple of Enthusiasm, Australian motorcycle brand Deus’ flagship Bali store, complete with cafe. To Seminyak’s south, Jimbaran Bay is known for its luxe resort restaurants and bars. Australian flair in the kitchen is coveted across the island, particularly in high-end hotels. Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay imported Aussie chef Greg Bunt for new bar and dining hotspot Sundara, with an open kitchen, ocean views and daybeds for cocktail lounging. While in Seminyak, W Retreat & Spa Bali sought out Aussie culinary talent Kevin Chung to head up its chic poolside eatery Starfish Bloo .
Rice pudding, as well, is a popular treat, drenched in coconut and often made using black rice. It’s a popular dessert that varies depending on where in Indonesia you are. Or have it for breakfast. Revitalise with a dip in your private plunge pool at Maya Ubud Resort and Spa (Jl Gunung Sari Peliatan). Luxe thatched-roof villas are surrounded by rice terraces and rainforest. This is where chefs and other discerning visitors make a beeline for the pumpkin and coconut rice pudding, whenever it’s available.