Dive into a pancake cloud at Melbourne’s Kumo cafe – but make sure you take a friend. They’re lithium-light, duckling-fluffy, Insta-friendly and gosh-darn tasty. Like a polyamorous fling between a pancake, a souffle and an omelette, the Japanese souffle pancakes at Kumo are our new food crush. Going by the queues, we’re not alone. 

But first, some backstory. Like many great things (poke, Mai Tais, Barack Obama), “Japanese” souffle pancakes are actually from Hawaii. Possibly a chef got up one day and decided that the higher the pancake, the closer to God. Maybe someone decided to create the edible version of a manga cartoon pancake. 

The truth will never be known, but history does relate that they jumped the pond to Japan, where they were showered with Pikachu-level love before heading out in a great pancake diaspora across the globe. They’re not the first to reach Melbourne, as the likes of the Toyoki Souffle Pancakes stall at Grazeland and Keki Milk Bar on Queen St would attest. 

After launching as a pop-up in 2019, Kumo (Japanese for “cloud”) has committed to a brick-and-mortar operation. Taking over an old red brick on Little Lonsdale, they’ve turned a deep, two-level dining room with an open kitchen at the front into a Scandi vision that’s chic yet easily wipeable (note: sandwiched between Melbourne Central and Emporium, it makes a perfect shopping pitstop). 

Kumo pancakes have gone their own way on the recipe, with 20 per cent Pepe Saya cultured butter (yes, that pancake is one-fifth butter folks – but at least they’re using the good stuff). Cooked for 20 minutes, they’re folded over so they arrive with a caramelised exterior hiding semi-runny innards, like an expertly made omelette with added creme anglaise. 

Toppings? The mango tango has mango compote and coulis (yes, there’s a difference, albeit slight) and a scoop of fairly pedestrian vanilla gelato. It’s like eating sweet, fruity air. The black sugar boba brulee bomb finished with blowtorched caramelised custard is delightfully dark and mysterious while the Nomtella goes straight for my kid’s heart with a middle crunchy layer of Nutella, more liquid hazelnut choc to pour over and a bunch of fresh strawberries. 

The pancakes are backed by a non-alcoholic drinks list that’s interesting enough to justify a visit. Specialty teas include hojicha (a nutty, slightly sweet roasted Japanese green tea) covered with a thick layer of cream foam while a lychee, watermelon and mint mocktail comes with the cute touch of a lychee-threaded swizzle stick. 

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Some observations. A single pancake can definitely be enough for two, as demonstrated by the young couples showing off their sharing skills at Kumo. Consume one solo and you’ll be painfully aware they’re not a health food as you stagger for the door. 

But no matter. There’s more Kumo fun to come. A durian version with housemade ube gelato is on the cards, which is a reason alone to return, and if you can visit post-7pm there’s an arrestingly green pandan version that promises to light up the ’Gram. 

Kumo is about the art of eating, after all; the conspicuous embrace of a trend that, on this showing, deserves to stick around.

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