Peanut butter bao buns and kimchi bacon benedict are just some of the highlights at Southside Bistro.
As architect and designer Ludwig Mies van der Rohe once famously said, sometimes less is more. It’s a motto that could prove particularly helpful at cafe-cum-restaurant Southside Bistro, in Brisbane’s Sunnybank. The all-day eatery with a focus on Asian- fusion cuisine has the Baskin-Robbins of menus with a whopping 31 dishes available for lunch.
There are bao buns filled with everything from peanut butter tofu to panko-crumbed pork; quirky takes on traditional breakfast fare like kimchi bacon benedict or shiitake, feta and haloumi fritters; hearty mains such as braised duck with poached eggs and scorched rice; and a toothache of out-of-the-box desserts that may include pumpkin and maple tart with soy sauce ice cream, or a creme brulee with coconut tamarind berry compote. It’s an offering that reads with intrigue and excitement for the culinary adventurous, but also one that puts immense pressure on the kitchen when the eatery gets busy.
On my visit, the cafe is three-quarters full and the overwhelming number of dishes – each with more elements than the periodic table – has the chefs struggling to keep up. It means food comes out in dribs and drabs, with half the guests at the two tables behind us receiving their meals, while the other half of each table waits up to 15 minutes for theirs to arrive. It’s a painful process that could easily be avoided by simply tightening the menu to a manageable amount of dishes. Less is more.
And it’s clear there are some bestsellers among the list, like the braised lamb shoulder with cornbread ($19). Three diners at the table beside us order it, causing the cafe to run out of cornbread, meaning ours comes with sourdough instead. It’s a fair substitute, with the chipotle and beer-based braising liquids soaking into the toast, while a salsa of corn, tomato and onion brings balance and freshness to the intense, hearty grub.
On the opposite end of the heaviness spectrum is the shichimi togarashi shredded crab ($21). The sourdough makes a return, smothered in avocado and generously piled with picked crustacean straight from a packet, which then forms a nest for two runny-yolked poached eggs. A snowfall of the Japanese seven-spice mix togarashi brings a touch of heat and buckets of flavour, while a deep-fried tangle of enoki mushrooms adds crunch and just a hint of umami. They’re both solid dishes but perhaps they, too, could benefit from a less is more approach, allowing for a little extra time and effort to be devoted to execution.
Receiving plenty of attention, however, is the drinks offering – a cornucopia of colourful, Instagram-worthy sippers from the rainbow of flavoured lattes (think taro and red velvet) and the elegantly executed house sodas and iced teas, to shakes, smoothies, vibrant juices and creamy coffee with a bitter finish. There is also local and imported beer, a handful of wines, sangria, cider and signature cocktails.
Southside Bistro is a venue that’s driven by creativity and ingenuity, which is to be applauded. But a less is more approach would help ensure adequate execution ensues.
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