The staff are equal parts fashionable and friendly, the decor pops, the celebrity spotting is as good as ever and the food has lost none of the exploratory gusto that chef Duncan Welgemoed brings to everything he does.

Africola has moved to a “feed me” menu, where the kitchen makes the choices. But fear not, they’ll happily include whatever takes your fancy. The signature crispy chicken tea sandwich with peri peri drippings alone is reason enough to visit. Who knew that something as simple as white bread and chicken skin could taste so ridiculously good?

Crisp-shelled kohlrabi cake with tofu cream is surprisingly delicate, while the mushrooms with white bean and chilli crisp are rich and robust. A roasted cauliflower quarter has a tinge of sweetness, while the cabbage and whey is subtle, creamy and provides a good reason to tear into your bread and sop up the sauce. The peri peri chicken comes with “boom chakalaka’’, a vinegary preserved lettuce draped over the top, and mpumalunga fire, the house hot sauce.

A dark chocolate mousse dusted with salt is textbook, while the rum-soaked cake could, dare we say, have had a touch more rum.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.