Tendrils of the slightly hot and tangy fermented cabbage are strewn across the Neapolitan-style pizza base, puffed and charred in all its glory, accompanied by oozy scamorza (smoked cheese) and onion. It all sits atop a deliciously herby “green sauce” base – think pesto meets salsa verde. Forget pineapple – this is a twist on an Italian classic everyone can get around. And it’s an example of how this neighbourhood diner makes companions of two very different cuisines.

Pizzas are certainly a highlight, as are the share-style plates of prosciutto, burrata and other snacks, many of which offer that Eastern twist. Sweet discs of persimmon topped with a sweet-spicy-sticky XO-inspired paste made with salami is a tasty little number to mop up with wood-fired bread. Dig deeper and you’ll find a milky nest of fresh stracciatella, which, while delicious, takes a back seat to the punchier flavours. Pastas are filling, so consider sharing.

The best is a blue swimmer crab “spaghetti” that leans closer to noodles, tossed through with chilli oil (lots of it) and piled with crunchy fried and fresh spring onions. Throw in one of Adelaide’s best cocktail selections (try the rhubarb highball), Anchovy Bandit is a great option before a movie at the nearby Palace Nova.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.