Lush is the word that springs to mind as I step out of the stark white hallway of the InterContinental and past the heavy, burgundy curtains into The Bar.

With thick carpet, dusty-pink high-backed velvet chairs and white- jacketed waiters, it’s one of the most glamorous venues in Sydney right now.

This maximalist’s dream is about as far as you can get from the minimalist, industrial vibe that dominates the bar scene. Given it’s the brainchild of Icebergs’ Maurice Terzini, it makes sense he’d do something the sector is missing out on.

A hotel bar is a tricky space that requires it to be many things to many people. Somewhere for those popping by for a quick drink before exploring, a destination for the well-heeled Double Bay set, a place for a snack when cafes are closed, or a late supper after a night out.

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The menu balances those competing demands well, there’s caviar and oysters, of course, plus snacky plates such as San Daniele prosciutto and Ora king salmon gravlax. A beef tartare is mixed tableside, a dash of theatre that befits the sumptuous surroundings.

Mains cover the must-have hotel bar dishes such as a club sandwich and span to restaurant-like WA marron cooked over coals. The cheeseburger hits all the right notes and is given the luxe treatment with a wagyu patty and fontina cheese.

Spanner crab and Pyengana cheddar lasagnette is rich and comforting, perfect fodder for a late supper. The sweet pieces of crab meat aren’t overpowered by the cheese and there’s a satisfying crunch from the gratin top.

This is a bar after all, so drinks are as well thought out as the food. It’s a short cocktail list, six options, that hover around the low $20 mark and includes Icebergs’ famous Bloody Mary.

The Bar Spritz, a mix of Select Aperitivo, lemon basil sherbet, prosecco and Italian tonic tastes of nostalgia. That pink fizz recalls the days of creaming soda, but the bitter notes – and the booze – put it firmly into grown-up territory.

The Tuscan – tequila blanco, limoncello and fermented Sichuan pepper – combine to taste like a lemony margarita.

An Aperitivo Spritz of aperitif bitter, clarified lemon syrup and in-house tonic shows how good mocktails can be if you put in the effort.

The wine list is also considered and, mostly, approachable. Sure, you can order a bottle of 2010 Dom Perignon for $650 if you don’t have to worry about making rent, but for the rest of us mere mortals, most of the by-the-glass wine options are under $20, such as an AIX Provence French rosé or a Brokenwood cabernet merlot.

Terzini has long been at the forefront of shaping how we want to eat and drink, before we know it ourselves. If The Bar is a glimpse into our future, the maximalist aesthetic is going to be big soon as we gravitate towards venues that help transport us to a more glamorous world. We’ll drink to that.