Sydney’s latest speak-easy has one of the most surprising locations yet. It’s not hidden behind an unmarked door down a dimly-lit back alley, nor is it underground in some secretive subterranean setting. ESQ Bar & Dining is in the last place you would ever expect to find it – on the top level of the QVB.

The new prohibition-style venue has just opened its doors in the former Esquire site, just two levels up from Sportscraft, Country Road and Cue. During the day, it’s hard to imagine any gangsters would hang out here. The grand Romanesque-designed space reveals soaring ceiling and splendid sunlit windows, better suited to morning tea than a meet-up with the mob.

It’s only in the evening that the interiors start to make sense. When the sun goes down and the hanging lights are dimmed, the slate grey furnishings and velvet drapes work together to create a 1920s scene, complete with a swinging soundtrack supplied by live jazz musicians.

The prohibition theme carries over to the menu, which has been created by head chef Guillaume Dubois. The devilled eggs are devilishly good. Seven bouncy boats are filled with a spiced yolk creme, with shavings of cured yolk on top for a rich luxurious finish. Potato cakes are crisp on the outside, soft in the centre like a dolled-up baked potato. They’re finished with a smear of ’nduja for a spicy Calabrian kick.

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From the mains, the pork schnitzel is sous vide first, then crumbed and fried, creating a pulled pork-like texture. It’s served a la Holstein, topped with a just-set egg, white anchovies and capers, with a squeeze of woodfired lemon for freshness.

Sides are generously portioned. A creamy Paris mash is so more-ish you risk eating the whole bowl, while the baby cos leaves may well contain a whole lettuce. It’s drizzled with a white balsamic dressing with snowy pecorino shavings on top.

For dessert, the carrot cake is a bit of a con job. Instead of the expected tea cake, a domed structure arrives, not dissimilar from the QVB’s own jade-green turrets. This one is filled with a ginger-spiced sponge and praline mousse, then sealed in glossy chocolate, with an apricot and carrot sorbet on the side.

Thankfully, there’s no bathtub booze behind the bar. The dedicated beverage program skips over the speak-easy sippers for cocktails of their own creation. The Darling Clementine combines Aviation gin with elderflower tonic and mandarin coulis. Meanwhile, the John Hancock turns Starward Two-Fold whisky into a glitzier drink with a dash of Mumm champagne, garnished with candied ginger.

Swing by after work for the “Six O’Clock Swill” where you can order a negroni, martini or gimlet for $15. Sommelier Louella Mathews has put together the wine list, which features all the classics, plus a few obscurities for those seeking something new. The focus is on the 5 B’s: Bordeaux, Brunello, Burgundy, Barossa and Barolo.

While the location might not be particularly discreet, at least it’s easy to get home with trains, buses and light rail immediately below.

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