This is why we eat out, surely, to be reminded that there are still chefs who wow us. Kaul is one such chef. Melbourne’s lucky to have her.

Her other showstopper is the addictive Western Plains pork belly rib, marinated in soy, garlic and other classified ingredients and cooked over flame. The sweetness of Shark Bay scallops against a punchy snow-crab sambal butter goes down a treat. As does a bitey bundle of shredded potato blanched and flavoured with smoked garlic and vegan fish sauce, tempered by fresh dill and creamy stracciatella.

The sourdough deserves special mention, too – specifically the smoked brown butter it comes with, like caramel toffee without sweetness. Etta’s staff are dynamic characters well-versed in menu specifics and showing guests a good time.

The dining room is a bit fancy, but also intimate, warm and well filled with plants. The drinks list offers everything from sake and “oxygen-treated” wines to boutique Champagnes and a surprising breadth of Burgundys. It’s a wine buff’s list but you don’t have to be an expert to enjoy it.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.