In Fugazzi, the CBD once again has a restaurant with the sense of occasion to encourage wanton misbehaviour. How fitting it is that this relative newcomer should have taken over the site where Rigoni’s was, in its heyday, renowned for lunches attended by the state’s heavyweights, who could be seen at window-side tables by passersby.

Fugazzi is more discreet. It all adds to the impact of walking into a dining room that, from the curved joinery to the rows of Fornasetti wall plates, is drop-dead gorgeous. Throw in black-aproned waiters and a big-band soundtrack and this is not Rome or Milan, but New York in full glamour mode. Co-owner/chef Max Sharrad brings this US/Italian theme up to speed, where a wood grill and vegetables figure prominently.

Golden strands of egg taglierini are tossed with hand-picked blue swimmer crab, salmon roe pearls, fermented chilli and crustacean butter for a pasta dish that is luxury with a backing of heavy metal. Also maxing out the flavour volume is flat iron steak grilled over a wood fire and rested in the smoke, before serving with fries, anchovy butter and jus.

To finish, a sheep milk yoghurt gelato comes with a lid of milk skin, honey drizzle and the native flavours of a davidson plum dust and melaleuca oil. It’s a timely reminder before you walk out the door that this isn’t really New York. 

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