Funda is a compound word made from fun and the Korean word “da”, which means “all and many”. It’s said Funda founders Jangho So and Sunyoung Kim wanted the space to feel friendly, like a Seoul house party, where all comers are welcome.

Walking through the immersive entrance to the restaurant is like stepping into a portal that will transport you back to the tech-driven year 2000. That and the fact that the DJ is blasting Gangsta’s Paradise by Coolio. Beyond the explosions of colour in the electronic patterns wallpapered to the entrance, designers get full marks for the comfortable olive-green banquettes, softly lit interiors and bar seating that encourages conversation with the chefs.

Diners at the 120-seat eatery can expect a lot of creativity from the kitchen team led by executive chef Jung-Su Chang, who was lured to Australia from Jungsik Seoul, where he retained two Michelin stars for four consecutive years. He also enjoyed a stint at L’Amant Secret and Pierre Gagnaire, also in Seoul.

Seated in a corner overlooking Macquarie Place, with a full view of the open kitchen, we start our meal with a few cocktails followed by our first dish, a rice cake and chicken sausage skewer. It is, says our waiter, a snack you might find at a hawker stall in Seoul – well-seasoned, supremely textural and served in a savoury sweet sauce.

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A starter of seasonal raw fish topped with seaweed is next, harnessing the flavours of pickled ginger and micro mustard. We also opt for the Korean tofu jjigae bobbing with cubes of silken tofu, delicate furls of beef, shiitake mushroom, and a warm, liquid egg served in an aromatic broth. Within the simplicity of this dish lies a depth of flavour that should make this stay, on rotation, as a signature.

Next is soy-cured bluefin tuna served with the bibimmyun of dry noodles that readily soaks up the sea of mushroom sauce it is served on and squares of finely cut cucumber that add a sensory crunch. A side of fresh cucumber kimchi was light, nourishing and tiptoed into funky town.

Whether it’s the electronic art, pulsing neon or 2000 techno music you get most pleasure from when dining at Funda, it’s the food and drink you will remember most vividly.

Despite it being my birthday, I barely had the chance to sink my spoon in the jujube cake, comprising of a crispy kadaif topped with mousse and butterscotch caramel, before it was devoured by my husband. Sharing is caring.

There’s no doubt that dining at Funda is fun. But it’s the pleasure of eating great food cooked by a chef as skilled as Jung-Su Chang that makes this a Y2K-pop party not to be missed. Stay tuned for the opening of sister venue Allta, next door, which will be more of a fine diner.

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