Eating at Grazia on a bitterly cold Saturday, I have a reverse Cinderella moment. On the strike of 12 (noon), the 100-seat restaurant starts filling with couples, families and groups of friends.

In less time than it takes to cook one of their signature pizzas (four minutes), the new hot spot is full. After opening in early May, Grazia has become Glen Iris’s belle of the ball – sophisticated, sleek and classic.

Standing on the footpath, where there are three tables with overhead heating, you could be forgiven for thinking Grazia is diminutive. But the moment you step inside, the space expands.

Set over three levels, an atrium ceiling fills the restaurant with light, which bounces off the sweeping marble bar, white textured stucco walls and burgundy tables. There’s a pop of greenery from a towering Ficus tree set at the end of a long sandy-hued banquette dotted with custom-made Sicily- inspired cushions.

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On the second floor, the red is swapped for verdant green cushions and tabletops, while on the upper level where the amenities are, bold citrus fruit Fornasetti wallpaper and a soundtrack which teaches diners how to say phrases in Italian adds to the charm.

Executive chef and co-owner Joe Di Cintio is renowned for serving classic Italian food but with a contemporary twist. Strong in his commitment to outstanding produce, Di Cintio has created an enviable shortlist of small plates and entrees to share, from the exceptionally tender chargrilled Western Australian octopus whose chilli kick is tempered by a silky cauliflower puree and crispy zucchini flowers with an unctuous four-cheese filling, to crisp globes of roasted pumpkin arancini.

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You’ll want to pace yourself though because there are other standout dishes, such as the plump tortelloni filled with wild mushrooms, served with a creamy porcini and fresh truffle sauce; and soft gnocchi lapped by a hearty ragu of slow-braised beef cheek and peas. Add one of the crispy-based, chewy crust Roman style pizzas (the dough has been fermented for three days) to the mix and you’ve got yourself an excellent meal.

The wine list is a tightly curated selection of local Italian varietals and imported Italian wines and beers, but it’s worth venturing a look at the cocktails, either to sample the barrel aged negroni or to sip the dashing Grazia sour with gin, Aperol, lime juice and aquafaba.

Room for dessert? Try the pillow-soft Sicilian doughnuts with the house-made pistachio cream and vanilla bean gelato or the elegant tiramisu where the classic dolci is as good as you’ll find anywhere. It’s a sweet end to a delicious meal, and as we walk out into a rainstorm, I only wish my prince charming had managed to park the carriage out front.

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