Keita Abe of Chaco Bar and Chaco Ramen has opened a temple to tempura in the backstreets just south of the CBD which explores the delicious possibilities of deep-frying everything. A concrete cube hung with black noren curtains marks the unassuming entryway for a trailblazing 20-course tempura tasting experience. A walnut wraparound counter separates diners from two circular fryers, into which premium Japanese ingredients are delicately dipped.

It’s crunch time! The omakase begins with Fremantle octopus balls enveloped in a crisp casing of nori batter, followed by a single scarlet prawn tempura, seasoned with a herbal matcha salt. Is there a more upper-crust dish than tempura lobster, sheathed in golden scaffolding yet still glistening, sashimi-like, within? Even foie gras is turned into a fritter. A side of pickled veg does its best to cut through the richness, but we prefer the yuzushu, a puckering punch of homemade yuzu sake that’s the perfect citrus counterpoint.

The deep-fryer is turned off for desserts but the crunch continues with adzuki red bean ice cream cradled in an edible wafer spoon. When it comes to fried food, HACO has mastered the art form.  

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